October Swell

october swell

the SW swell has arrived earlier than usual at Doran, bringing steady chest high waves

I’ve tried to spend a little time each day shaping my 10-6, solid wood longboard, and it’s finally beginning to look ride-able. With the early arrival of the southwest swell at Doran Beach, I’m encouraged to speed things up, fair the hull, clear coat it with resin and get out there. There’s been a steady handful of surfers when the tide is right, with reports of overhead waves early last week. Shaping my longboard has been a great way to get an upper body workout in preparation, while both relaxing and focusing my mind.

Life and work seem to require that we switch constantly between being active participants and passive receptors, yet we tend to seek experiences that blend the two into a kind of generative combo- a great conversation, cooking or making something, playing music or sports, etc. Part of what appeals to me about surfing is how it fosters a state of active receptivity at its most elemental level, where the goal is simply to occupy that state.


my 10-6 longboard is almost ready for final shaping and sanding

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