Scouting Doran

the southern stretch of Doran Beach, looking southeast towards Tomales Bluff Whenever I go to the beach, at least a few times a week, I habitually count the number of birds flying in formation, usually pelicans, who often fly in sets of 9 through 15. I’m not sure what I’m looking for, but am always […]

Fairy Godmother of Surf

Donald Fortescue is my Fairy Godmother of Surf Over Labor Day weekend our good pals Sandra Kelch and Donald Fortescue stayed at our new wowhaus retreat. Sandra has been working over the summer with Ene and our friend Kathleen Monroe on renovating the interior, and it’s been fun to share the compound with friends and […]

Chopping Wood

I need to cut and chop at least two cords of firewood a year for our primary heat. As part of my commitment to A Year in Surf, I’ve been doing something everyday to prepare myself mentally and physically. Last night after a day driving to and from a marathon of faculty meetings at CCA‘s […]

Shaping the Olo

I use all of may favorite hand tools to shape my first surfboard. These late summer evenings I’ve been enjoying dropping into a state of loose focus as I shape my first surfboard from a slab of air-dried cottonwood. An aroma reminiscent of farm animals wafts up as my plane curls ribbons of excelsior. I […]

A Year in Surf, Preamble

Whether you consider it precaution or precognition, sometimes it makes sense to change things up just when they appear to be running smoothly. I feel very fortunate that my hard work over the years has earned me the luxury of making a living doing pretty much exactly what I want to do, some of which […]